Peripatos Route – Such a fun warm up. What a trip running into Pete!
AUTOPSIA Route – Trip highlight for me. Of course it’s soft, but it’s fun as heck and totally punchy the whole way.
P-Noccio Route – Fun last climb in Leonidio. Beautiful place and I can’t wait to come back.
Vince Sugrue

Tsibouri extension Route – L1+L2. Technical.
Psaromallis Route – The most beautiful 6-grade route of Twin Caves.
Giorgos Minadakis

Π-Noccio Route – Nice vertical climbing with some hidden holds. Solid 6b+.
Bonobo Route – Did all moves with some hangs and one fall. Some really cool moves but hard to onsight. Didn’t see the jugs in the face part at first. Challenging to find decent feet – Especially at the top they are not where you want them. Generally also quite worn out.
Tobias Auth

Chipotle Route – Noooooooo! Fell off the boulder problem at the top!
Chipotle Route – Did it as the warm up today!
Patata Negra Route – Fluffed the sequence at the crux and fell off, pulled straight back on and did the crux, and went on to the chains.
Patata Negra Route – Ace route, but quite sharp holds made for sore skin! Two working goes, then one good burn falling off mid crux with cold fingers, then another go a bit tired doing it in sections. Couple of hard moves still after the obvious crux, but interspersed with rests.
Adam Booth

The Paradox of Our Age Route – Good techy climbing, hard at the start. Much better than it looks and flows quite nicely.
Chipotle Route – Had been watching everyone trying this and got psyched. Felt tired before I started from Bonobo but had good beta from Theo and Wald talking me through every bit with me ad libbing occasionally. Flowed nicely on the lower section, struggled a little getting into the kneebar rest, had a shake and then thrutched up the tufas, only just making the move into the rest hole after following Remus’ shout of “get your feet higher” just before I popped and cut loose and held the jug one arm. Had a nice shake and got to the jug above the chains to finish. Quality! Felt ok at the chains and considered going for the extension but couldn’t see any chalk and it didn’t look great, probably for the best because once I got to the ground I felt completely spent.
Bonobo Route – Putting the draws in. Cool techy moves lower down felt fairly steady, but it soon kicked up a notch in the tufa section. Never quite got the knee bar in right on the good rest but got enough back (just). Last moves were pretty marginal, just throwing between patches of chalk that I hoped were holds, in an increasingly urgent attempt to get the chains clipped! Had seen people falling off the top the other day so knew it was hard just before the chains but didn’t see any beta, so not a strict onsight, but close enough for me to take it.
shed_hed

Parahorisi Route – Excellent with increasing difficulty as you approach the chains. The finish was exciting and pleased to push through. Thought closer to 6c.
Tsibouri Route – Had quick look at the extension. Very thin tension climbing with some tricky feet.
Avgi Route – Technical climbing with a couple of ways to finish with same difficulty.
druss

Patata Negra Route – Sharp holds at beginning!
What Route – 8a+/b Super good route!
Piotrek Bia³as

A pig in the roof Route – Soft Using knee pads, the route gets much easier. I guess it’s 8a+/b.
Gabriel Korbiel

AUTOPSIA Route – Soft Bouldery, nice moves
Arina Bogdanova

Jeremy Route – Arrived just as the conditions came in and everyone was leaving. Route dispatched easily today but it did take 4 tie-ins over 3 days. My first tie-in was a feeble on-sight attempt.
Jeremy ext Route – Doesn’t add much to the grade because the knee bars are hands off. Was originally given 8a but 7c is a more realistic grade. Nice to go to the top of the crag. 3 tie-ins in total spead over 3 days.
Bonobo Route – Failed to onsight this a couple of years ago by the last bolt. I could remember what went wrong that last time and did it cleanly today. Went for the extension but fell between the 1st and 2nd bolt. Not fit enough.
Mr Magoo Route – Failed to onsight at the 8th bolt because I misread the sequence, doh, then suffered from terminal pump there after. One hour later on redpoint, steady away, zero pump and skipping kneebars. WTF. Warming up on 6s in retrospect was a mistake.
Eduardo Martinez

Vromika Myala Route – Sharp slot likes to eat skin
Bonobo Route – Big rests all the way varied Climbing with plenty of tufa time
Tsibouri extension Route – Technical and fingery not a good warm up in 0 degrees
Mr Magoo Route – Soft Probably 7b+ but does not detract from the quality beautiful moves on good quality rock
Christopher Sykes

A pig in the roof Route – A quick night ascent. With kneepads, most probably 8a+, though.
Morchi Route – Another night ascent, too hot during the day!
Aristomenis Thanopoulos

Vromika Myala Route – 3 goes today on this route. Problems between clips 5/6? at the upper section of tufa not yet finding a good sequence. Wondering if just going out right onto the cornflake then clipping the 7th late is the way for me. Rest of the route feels good.
K Wall

Mr Magoo Route – Who had that stupid idea to grade this route down to 7b+?! Good tufa-line but did not feel easier than for example “Chipotle”.
Fata Morgana Route – In the new guidebook downgraded to 7c+ but that’s okay. Felt to easy for an 8a. Relatively easy 1st half, harder 2nd half. 2nd Go
Robin Kirchmair

Chipotle Route – Great route. But the extension finishes in choss, don’t bother!
A pig in the roof Route – Soft Powerful 3D climbing on good holds all the way. Thanks Chris for the step by step beta all the way to the chains!
AUTOPSIA Route – Nice start to the trip if your endurance sucks!
Edd Mowbray

Cripled Route – Hard and worrying rock in places.
Patata Negra Route – Great route. Didn’t seem soft to me! But I’m pretty short and it continues to be sweaty as hell!
Psaromallis Route – Really enjoyed this route. Much better than it looks and unlike every other 6 in the caves I didn’t need to queue!!
Rankers

Agrimi Route – The crumbly rock is clealry much improved, but a little care is valuable. The main demand tho is the steep powerful start and the tricky technical finish. A fine route, and a good option when others routes are super busy
Psaromallis Route – somewhat under rated. very sustained fingery and technical with puzzling moves on super sharp rock. 3 stars for some, 6c+ for me
John Cuthbert

Tsibouri ext Route – Jammed, torqued and locked my way up the first half. Crimpy start to the headwall
Vromika Myala Route – Cool climbing, messed up the tufa crux using someone ticket feet on the massive tufa slopers. There a good rest of the flake/kneebar then more tufa, a rest and technical crimps to the top.
Chipotle Route – Not too bad to halfway, then a hard section on the leaning tufa, more powerful pinching, a hard few moves to the big hole and a shake, and then short boulder to the top. Powerful and shouldery
Bonobo Route – A fight. Low wall is ok, hard to put the clip in before moving down and right in to a back and foot rest at the bottom of the tufa. Some steady but sustained moves for a few bolts, up the tufa, then it narrows and you can start kneebarring. Kept this up to the last clip, then a hard powerful couple of moves when you’re really pumped and worn out leads to holds by the chains. Really physical route. If it ended at the tufa/last bolt it would be 7b, but the sequence to the chains makes it 7b+ for me. Maybe if you’re a tufa wad it’s ok, my right leg was wasted!
Mr Magoo Route – Full value for 7b+ really bouldery start, end then it’s sustained up the leaning wall / tufa groove with long moves and lots of slopers/pinches. Found the top ok. Basically a bolt to bolt
George_Surf

Mr Magoo Route – Hard I will stick to the topo grade, but it could be 7c..
A pig in the roof Route – Soft 6 try. Nice moves. I wanted to climb this one before I even went here..
AUTOPSIA Route – Some hard moves..
Bread and salt Route – Last time Saša didn’t found a solution..today I did, short but some hard moves. Didn’t use the tufa..
Rajko Zajc

Tufandago Route – Cooler Dyno in der Mitte; harte Crux vor dem Umlenker
Solveig Korherr

Nanaki Route – Felt pretty technical
Salate Route – Climbed more into the crack/offwidth, felt hard for 5c
smile youve won

Nanaki Route – Thought the other warm ups were much better. This felt hard for the first route of the day.
imacri

Vromika Myala Route – Cool route with one hard crux move on a onsight go and a easy rune out
Bonobo Route – Realy good route, if you are bad in tufas and kneebars the route will be hard harder….
valldryzen

Hrisiktisia Route – Hard finish, out of character with the lower section. Dodged L and back R to avoid steep, groov.
Rob Davies

AUTOPSIA Route – Beta from sumsi worked great! 🙂
Patata Negra Route – 3rd Go. If you have the old guidebook you have to try the 8a+ to finally do a real 8a. 😉 All the downgrades have been a little bit frustrating.
Fata Morgana Route – First i didn´t really feel the downgrade of this one. 😉 After changing the beta of the last meters it was quite a relaxed ascent. The first half of the route is not a beauty…
Jeremy Route – In the new guidebook it is 7c..I don’t know. I have no endurance. 🙂 but it is harder than cipotle for sure.
Paul Kiefer

What Route – Soft onsight to the last move. never 8b. would not surprise me if it gets downgraded to 8a.
Gaidoura Doura Route – Soft soft 8b.. not 8b+ for sure. so many kneebars make the climb pretty soft. nevertheless an absolutely awesome route!!
Christoph Kappacher

Chipotle Route – Had watched someone climb this next to me when I did Bonobo so had a pretty good idea of the crux. Pleased to have enough in the tank to reach the ‘proper’ finish hold, although I’d have still taken the tick without…
Bonobo Route – Ironically managed to flash the two harder routes either side, albeit in much better conditions. Tough to read crux at the top is a bit of a heartbreaker.
Mr Magoo Route – Start was much trickier than anticipated, then a major tufa battle to the top. Very pleased to get the onsight
JBO

Bonobo Route – Pretty nice fight with good kneebars
A pig in the roof Route – Felt not so hard from the first try on, but took my quite some tries in the end to get it done and I was also pretty close to falling in the send Go but somehow I was able to hold on and climb my first 8b! 🙂 basically kneebared my way up but that’s how I roll 😀 really cool and impressive climb!
Tufandago Route – Felt quite easy from the first try on! So happy that i managed to climb to the top after sticking the first crux 🙂 pure awesomeness on tufa blobs!
Bread and salt Route – Epic warm up send, got quite pumped, maybe not the best idea though 🙂
Morchi Route – What a fight! The top section threw me off two times but finally I managed to get this crazy two finger pocket on my last go of the last climbing day in Leonido! Thank you climbing gods 🙂 climbed it directly to the chains by the way!
Bonobo extension Route – Long reaches on good jugs in the overhang, 2 good kneebars and a very tricky to clip anchor, nice extension! 🙂
Ulli Donabaum

Vromika Myala Route – Tricky moves on lower part to a hands off rest in crumbling and wet flowstone ‘wounded’ rock on the left. More tricky moves lead up and (unfortunately) left again to a slightly disappointing finish.
Bonobo Route – Soft Impressive tufa-hugging route. To my surprise I kept it cool despite the sun. The + is for it being an impressive route. The end should not be the crux when fit, with knee/leg/arm-bars a-plenty. Good to be fit 🙂
Tsibouri extension Route – Balancy crimpy and not that easy at all. Please brush the excess chalk off the holds after climbing!
Harald Swen

Tufandango Route – Dropped this one at mid height but would have fallen off the top on the flash anyway. Amazing climbing up slopy tufa blobs
Orion Route – Blew this low down when I missed the clipping position and had to jump off (and pick my legs up!). Probably soft 8b. More continuous than Tufandango.
Gravity Route – Tough! Soft 8b+. At least I got good beta for Alex’s flash go.
Morchi Route – Not that close to this one. First boulder ok but second way too hard to stand a chance flashing. Barrows hiked it as usual
Patata Negra Route – Someone said this was the best 8a in Leonidio. Erm, no. Choss bottom half.
midgets of the world unite

Psaromallis Route – Nice- and the only real warm up at the right side of the cave.
Cripled Route – A bit strange at the roof
Paradox of our age Route – Technical at the beginning
P-Noccio Route – Really a good one
Rauber Fotzenklotz Route – One of the shorter routes there. Long and powerful moves on nice tufastructures.
Christian Winklmair

Tufandango Route – Rained all night, which kept the crowds away this morning. Bone dry and perfect conditions. Fantastic route that isn’t really my style, had to learn a lot of short person beta to get it done.
Elliot Walker

Gumbo Route – Nice climbing on incur slots. Doesn’t look like much but we’ll worthwhile.
Hrisiktisia Route – Really squeezed.
Parahorisi Route – At one point I was able to touch bolts on three routes at the same time, so they are a bit squeezed in. But once this route gets into the excellent tufa flow up high it gets real good.
Tsibouri Route – A bit scrappy, but cool hand and finger jams. Something different.
Tsibouri Extension Route – Thought I would continue up the extension as it looked good. Nice fingery complex face climbing. A few grades harder than what I was expecting.
Nanaki Route – Looks short and poxy, but offers a steep technical slab leading to steeper juggyness. Awesome.
Π-Noccio Route – Nice technical wall climbing. Easier than it looks.
The paradox of our age Route – Felt a bit tired towards the top. Had to downclimb to get out of trouble.
Agrimi Route – Saw a lass take a nice whip off this late in the day, looking at the chains but she couldn’t release a hand to clip. It’s side pulley up there.
Cripled Route – Had to use some finger locks. Felt very reachy and hard for the grade.
Peripatos Route – Excellent climbing. Felt a bit stiff and reachy on the headwall.
Salate Route – The line of the crag!
Vromika Myala Route – The crowds departed and there was a rare period of time when this route is not being seiged. Had a nervous moment up high pulling into a wet slab, but held it together. Totally classic climbing. Looks from the ground to be a bit contrived (very close to a 5c bridging corner that you could use for a rest) but doesn’t feel like it when climbing.
Bread & Salt Route – Crag was a heaving mass of people. This route had the advantage of being available. Thought it was a 7b. Wondered why the crux felt too hard!
Psaromalis Route – The top half is top quality climbing.
o_g

Chipotle Route – Second redpoint-ace route! If I were writing Aris’ guidebook I would have given this and Bonobo the musical note symbols
Bonobo Route – Death pump clipping the chains! My right knee is now on mega bruise
Patata Negra Route – Bouldery
Psaromallis Route – A bit go-ey in the middle, a nice warm up
HeatherF

Vromika Myala Route – Instable into the tufas. Then found a good solution for the upper Boulder.
Tsibouri extension Route – 99% onsight plus one ‘put your feet’. Interesting structures.
yogy w-man

Vromika Myala Route – Finally did this one as a warm up after failing twice two other days due to really stupid mistakes. The line is super nice. Watch out to be really gently with big flake at the rest, it’s super fragile..!
Chipotle Route – Some good pinches on tufa, and a kneebar between two tufa that save it all. Awsome line
Bonobo Route – The line is really nice on these big tufas. So many good kneebars to put, feel quite soft
Mr. Magoo Route – Quite a fight, the middle section cost me a lot, thankfully managed to find a half rest on the big tufa that saved me! Great line!
Théophile Ruzicka

Tsibouri extension Route – Technical with fingery moves
Erik Van den Goor

Chipotle Route – This turned into a bit of a last day battle but went down ok in the end. Great tufa climbing.
Bonobo Route – A fight against pump. Awesome
Tomar

Agrimi Route – Good warm up for the sector. Really enjoyable climbing!
Bonobo Route – Psyched to get this done! Had two climbs up in Feb, got it clean on top rope 2nd climb then it was wet for the rest of the trip. Came back and had two climbs the other day – fell at the last bolt. Today we spent morning at Elona and came here after, went up putting clips in and fell AT the chains, then got it 2nd try. Lovely, lovely tufa climbing. I used a lot (really a Lot) of knee bars, one body jam rest and otherwise techy tufa, some crimping…. Just lush. Very satisfying to get this done! 🙂
Emilysaladfingers

Bonobo Route – Excellent climb, if you know how to tango with tufa’s I guess it will be less pumpy!
Arvid Knegt

Nanaki Route – Hard Bad for your feet but a nice short line
Annemieke De Bruin

Chipotle Route – incredible route and one worth coming back for!
dac0389

Peripatos Route – Great route
Salate Route – Great route
Chipotle Route – Excellent Route. Hard crux sequence . You have to get the jug up and left of the lower off for the tick.
Mr Magoo Route – Lowered down route and put draws in from Bonobo. Good beta from Ben on crux start then great tufa climbing with good rests. 7C .
awsomal

Bonobo Route – Nice route. Direct line, with 1 kneebar.
Chipotle Route – The beautiful route so far in Twin Caves sector.
Z A

Vromika Myala Route – Enjoyable classy wall climb. Harder thought provoking sections then rests. Just my cuppa
UKB Shark

A pig in the roof Route – Soft Very good moves with a hard fight at the tufa on the top.
Morchi Route – Soft Complete different than the other neighbor routes but very very good.
Gaidoura Doura Route – Soft Maybe not the hardest one but very very good route.
Jeremy ext. Route – Soft First part of the route is very good but the second part is not.
Tom Emsperger

Tufandago Route – Nice moves on little blobs. Several hart sections and the crux before the anchor. Amazing Route!
Gaidoura Doura Route – Probably soft but I’m happy anyway :). What a great line. 5 of 3 stars
Tanja Emsperger (f)

Peripatos Route – Surprisingly great. Hard in sneakers.
Chipotle Route – Mega tufa pumping action. Just made it.
Bonobo Route – Super tufa action. Did the hard/stupid version up the face in the middle with onsight goggles on and was brick pumped.
Mr. Magoo Route – So Alex put up my draws, so I got to watch his beta. It was, shall we say, unhelpful . Fell one move shy of a jug. From there to the top. Can’t win them all.
Lee Cujes

Tsibouri Route – Trying to capitalise on my successes earlier in the day by trying the extension. Looks like success is a pot which can empty. Could not bring myself to get past clip one on the extension. Next time maybe.
Tsibouri ext Route – Lost my confidence going for this on the lead after the nightmare which was Cripled (6b). Had a token effort before coming down and working some beta out on top rope. Dispatched first red point! Bloody lovely route. Really technical / intricate climbing. Ace to watch Remus doing well on his route. Waddage!
Nanaki Route – Tricky start. Good route.
π – Noccio Route – It was a nice route. Yes, that is all.
The Paradox of Our Age Route – A great route. Much better than it looks! Varied climbing the whole way. In other news, it was mega to watch Remus smash his first 8b. What a beast!!
Cripled Route – Nightmare route. I was up and down it like a yoyo but couldn’t commit to the moves out of the hole!!
Vromika Myala Route – Apprehension city today!! was hoping picking up lost bag faff would take longer than it did … but it didn’t. Got to the crag in the afternoon. It was overcast and temps / conditions much better than the previous day. Skin and body hurt and I’d pretty much convinced myself that I wasn’t going to get on it. Sensing my apprehension and taking advantage of my social niceties (we were climbing with other people) Remus said he’d put the clips in for me. Committed now! I top roped it to warm up, falling off going for the tufa tick and secret pocket. That didn’t fill me with confidence. I opted for the direct version of the tufa section and fell off through this section. Hmmmm definitely a go-er this route I thought. The top section felt ok but I messed up my sequence and went for the pocket with precision but with the wrong hand. Lowered off and procrastinated for as long as humanly possible (wees, drinks, chatting, supporting, belaying) before having to get on it on the red point. Started up the lower section with trepidation as the tufa tick and secret pocket section loomed. Got to the pocket but only just and nearly came off wildly as I readjusted. Got to the bottom of the tufa section and managed to climb my extended clip from slightly lower down than I’d anticipated which felt good. I pulled harder than I ever have done and found myself at the rest. I really didn’t want to blow it now. Started up the technical section, getting the pocket right but almost came off when throwing for the ledge as I was tired and excited and I built my feet up too quickly. I managed to stick it and pull over to the last clip before the finals moves to the chain. Thank the lord … amen!
Vromika Myala Route – What a cool route!! Initially tried to onsight it before reaching the little sequence before the tufas (about clip 4 / 5). It required a slap for a good hold and then a dainty foot sequence before desperately grabbing for the ticked tufa mark. What I hadn’t realised is that there was a sneaky hidden hold behind this; not that this knowledge actually made me any less happy about doing the moves. The sequence took you right away from your bolt and your almost above / at hip height of your next bolt before the breathe holding sequence was over. Then there was the dilemma of whether I went direct or right. The boys went right and said they thought it was more amenable but I was finding trending back left pretty difficult. After this tricky section you get a rest before a technical powerful section which requires precision pocket throwing, high foot placements and throwing to ledges. All my favourite things (not!!). Got to the top (eventually) and wasn’t really sure that I wanted to get back on this. Worked some beta for the direct version of the tufa section on the way down … just in case. To be continued …. maybe…
Rocky

Vromika Myala Route – Easier than 6a till the 4th bolt, then slightly overhanging on tufas. Not easy to read imo. 2nd crux after ledge: slopercrimps into fingerpocket. Then easier and a bit runout to the top
Tsibouri extension Route – Easy slab into sustained vertical climbing on crimps
Psaromallis Route – Easy start into sustained climbing on (slopy) crimps – pumpy and good!
Cripled Route – Good warm-up, gets more difficult in the upper part
Peripatos Route – Good warm-up, vertical climbing, boulder crux towards the top
AUTOPSIA Route – Short and powerful – really nice 🙂 thanks Felix for the draws and the beta
Christoph Barthel

Vromika Myala Route – Finally did this one as a warm up after failing twice two other days due to really stupid mistakes. The line is super nice. Watch out to be really gently with big flake at the rest, it’s super fragile..!
Bonobo Route – Soft The line is really nice on these big tufas. So many good kneebars to put, feel quite soft
Chipotle Route – Some good pinches on tufa, and a kneebar between two tufa that save it all. Awsome line
Mr Magoo Route – Quite a fight, the middle section cost me a lot, thankfully managed to find a half rest on the big tufa that saved me! Great line!
Jeremy Route – 4th go. Wow, really didn’t think I would be able to climb this one, such a big fight on all of my attempts. The crux felt nearly impossible on my first go, and felt so hard every time after! And the mantle… But very happy to have climbed it! Last route of this amazing trip in Leonidio
Théophile Ruzicka

A pig in the roof Route – Don’t say that titans have been crashed until they stop breathing. lots of snow, +3C and icicles on the rock. Thanks to a wild bird for inspiration.
AUTOPSIA Route – nice and bouldery
Chipotle ext Route – nice line till the top of the cliff.
Kirill Grishko

Chipotle Route – Amazing tufa line with technical start and power finish
Bread and salt Route – Back in the game 🙂 first 7C after 2 years
Jo Scha

Tsibouri extension Route – Tricky upper wall.
Parahorisi Route – Tricky upper wall.
Marc Bourdon

Parahorisi Route – only harder at the end, delicate moves
Nanaki Route – delicate at the start, strange moves higher up
Limoncello Route – a bit technical for 5c
Bebelino Route – Soft very nice, soft for the grade, nothing but jugs
Jos Dehaes

Tsibouri extension Route – Crimpy on the top
Parahorisi Route – Nice tufas in the end
Dimitris Sparis