Spaceman Spiff EXT Route: Super cool, really steep on sharp pockets
Oeil de biche Route: My first 7c+ Had to fight quite hard in the first overhang section. And the pocket part after is amazing. Probably a bit soft if you’re tall.
Théophile Ruzicka

Boubouki Route: Great tufa climbing
Yoko M-Ono Route: Very popular route, thought I’d try it myself. Very pleasant, not so spectacular. Zigzagged my way up the slight overhang and enjoyed the pocket climbing that followed
Tufatango Route: Beautiful tufa climbing on an aesthetic, curvy line. Great warmup.
Sinter Synphonie Route: Nice tufa climbing, kinda hard to get to the anchor, maybe 6b+
Jumanji Route: Some kneebar action at the beginnig, followed by diagonal pocket climbing. Nice line
E.S.A. Route: Felt hard for 6a. Nice juggy beginning on overhangy terrain and some balancy diagonal climbing after. Interesting route.
Biosphare Route: Easy as pie, mostly footwork, pleasant route
Oeil de Boeuf Route: I think the most beautiful route I have tried so far! 42m long – 4 distinct sections with no arms rests in between. Starts as pure fun on big tufas, a hard traverse to reach a good kneebar, before exiting the roof section in style (7b+/c), nice pocket climbing on the vertical wall (6c), followed by a strong sequence as soon as you enter the next slight overhang(7b), to finish with a bouldery crux (7c?) at the top and sustained climbing literally till the anchor. First 7c+ (old guidebook 8a). What a journey, the mental battle was everything for me! Felt easy, then hard, then easy, then hard again. I overworked my body, got minor injuries and developed a sense of aversion for the route. It went down after a good number of tries (8-9) only when I finally had no expectations – on that attempt it felt more like a walk than a struggle -> remember the lesson Thank you Casper and Kev for sharing beta.
Boubouki Extension Route: Beauuuutiful route! Tufa climbing followed by a slight overhang with sidepull pockets and jugs. Tried it a while ago in the dark without a torch. Finished it today (too many ways to do the crux, pick one)
Spiders From Mars Route: Very enjoyable climb on pockets. Great for novices to work on footkwork and not getting pumped (remember, look at the footholds before you go for the next handhold because then you can’t see
Stelios Despotakis

Chuck Notis Route: Nice big groovy moves until you need to figure out how to get to the anchor.
Sinter Synphonie Route: Two way exit to the chain. One of the best in this grade and style.
Áron Rigó

Chuck Notis extension Route: Quite a journey. Handjam in the crack before the bulb.
drop city direct Route: Explosive start followed by easy, sharp fun.
Thomas Karlsson

Boubouki Route: Great climbing up the tufas, probably more deserving of the 6b+ it used to get. Well worth doing.
Boubouki Extension Route: Felt pretty hard to me. The climbing just keeps coming, although you do get some good rests. Mega.
Olly Russell

Yoko M-ono Route: Finally an OS this trip!. What a fantastic route! Burly small tufas to a no-hand to endurance pocket pulling. Rly cool!!!
Spaceman Spiff Route: Easier tufa to a tough finish. I almost almost fell at the end…
Petar Chalamov

Biosphäre Route: A re-introduction to long routes! Really nice although some of the pockets were a bit moist.
Bon Voyage Route: Climbs much better than it looks (apart from the mid route gardening)
El Gecko Route: Really ace route. Worked out a good sequence on my dog go. Next time!
Yoko M-ono Route: Slightly under the weather with a head cold and therefore wasn’t fancying my chances of getting this today. Was bullied in to an initial redpoint attempt which was somewhat disastrous as I couldn’t remember much of my sequence for the lower section. Spent a bit of time working it out before bolt-to-bolting to the top. The lack of available draws meant that I needed to have a RP attempt before Remus could get on anything he wanted to do. The pressure was mounting… I had a little rest and a satsuma before tying back in. Managed to get through the crux section relatively unscathed. Started the sustained upper section aiming for the rest before the penultimate clip. Over-estimated how much I’d be able to get back at the rest and so knew it was up or off! Continued to pull through to the chains, but ended up a bit too far left but could juuuuust stretch across and clip the chains. Phew!
Boubouki Route: There was a lot of chitter chatter about the start being hard, although it wasn’t too bad in the end. Great route!
Sinter Symphonie Route: Totally out of my comfort zone with this trad-like route but ti had to be done. Never seen tufas like these bad boys. Difficult couple of moves off the ground, a little sting in it’s tail, but the rest is just really nice climbing.
E.S.A. Route: First lead outside since October 2019. So nice to be back on rock!!
Rocky

Boubouki EXT Route: It just doesn’t get better than this route
Spaceman Spiff EXT Route: SO MUCH FUN. hard 7a+ or easy 7b
Max Nanao

Boubouki Extension Route: Fell off this at the start of the trip, went down much easier today. Great route. I went direct at the crux instead of the longer loop out left and then back right. Couple hard pulls but easier I think.
Spaceman Spiff Extension Route: Feet in the wrong place at the steep bit and took on the rope. Got feet in a better position out right and climbed the rest clean. Save it for another day to do again clean. Fantastic route again and a fun first pitch.
N.A.S.A. Route: Sting in the tail at the top !
rachelpearce01

Yoko M-ono Route: Bit a bouldery start then pocket pulling to the top. Good!
Drop City Route: A thin move off a rail after the intense tufa start, then it’s long moves off pockets
Boubouki Route: Amazing wall of tufas but the headwall is where the moneys at
Boubouki Extension Route: This was awesome. The tufa leaning head wall is really good, with a slight crux in the middle. Aside from that it’s enduro, with a rest and a sharp pull to the chains
Pontiki sto Tiri Route: Bit tricky off the floor then it’s steady
Pontiki sto Tiri Extension Route: Thought this was of the best/most fun routes of the trip. Some good technical and steep climbing initially up the prow, then some long moves pulling round on to the headwall (hard small undercut tufa move) and to the big hole, can switch between knees, no hands, full recovery. Top wall is great sustained climbing on good holds all the way. Brilliant, managed to keep the pump at bay and thought it was steady for 7b
Spaceman Spiff Route: Thought this had a hard/scary move low down, and then it eases. Slippery on the feet, not the best
Spaceman Spiff Extension Route: Another great extension. First bolt on the steep section felt pumpy to clip, then you get long moves on very good holds, but you need some compression to bridge and stay on the rock. Above is a rest, the headwall is sustained but never too hard. I was pumped the whole way. Brilliant endurance, not a giveaway
Chuck Notis Route: Felt a lot easier than spaceman spiff. Good kneebar rest after the first steep bit, then there’s one hard move between tufas and after that everything is a jug. Bit awkward clipping the chains, draw was behind my head. 7a felt fair to me
Chuck Notis Ext 1 Route: The 7b crux copout way (didn’t want to RP the boulder)! Climbed the crack and clipped the bolt above the chains (quite hard), reversed to the stalagtight and jug below the chains for a rest. A few long moves up and right, then back left. After that there’s two great leaning walls, long moves on good holds. Excellent
N.A.S.A. Route: It’s pretty steady, past some bad looking rock here and there, to a hard boulder before chains. Was not prepared, had to pull on a bad slopey pinch and then in to an undercut mono that I couldn’t believe I had to yard on?! Felt solid, and not really my sort of thing
George_Surf

Mystere Et Boule De Gomme Route: Two different styles in one route. Awesome!
Martin Dejori
Oeil de Boeuf Route: Great line! A few harder sections with good rests in between.
Martin Dejori

Yoko M-Ono Route: I really don’t understand why this route is so popular… It’s not bad, but on the other hand it is not very good either. Every single route on the overhanging section of Mars is 100x better.
Oeil De Biche Route: Done the top boulder directly (with a dynamic cross move/jump), I’ve seen people skip it by going to the left and then traversing back right to the big hole.
drop city direct Route: Skipped the second clip. Can’t really imagine anyone clipping it…
Freddie Chopin

Yoko M-ono Route: Far to tweaky for a warm up. Awesome sustained sequence on pockets. Would have loved to try it again, but not to be.
Pontiki sto Tiri Route: This sector is awesome. Bit of a circus though, with about 30 climbers and 20 routes.
N.A.S.A. Route: A chossy route on the far right. Beggars can’t be choosers when it’s a busy day. All the difficulty packed into the last 5 metres. Pulled to hard on a pocket. Ouch.
o_g

Pontiki sto Tiri Route: For the grade…one of a kind!
Pontiki sto Tiri Extension Route: One tricky section high up. Superb.
Spaceman Spiff Extension Route: Short powerful section through bulge. Splendid.
Chuck Notis Route: Fell off extension in fading light. Great route…. lower section tough for 7a.
Rich Kirby

Snickers Route: reachy first move if smaller – witgh qd – amazing route
Boubouki Extension Route: 40m of pure pleasure. A MUST at mars
d Mirel

Super Nova Route: Hard for the grade in Leonids Lovely and looong.
El Gecko Route: Did as the warm up. Glad for the rest point in the middle
Boubouki Route: Probably the most fun I’ve had climbing a route
Sinter Symphonie Route: Perplexing top out. Really incredibly good
TomatoPro

Spiders from Mars Route: 70 m rope no issue Super route
Bon Voyage Route: Cleaned the route for some lovely Italian people. Harddddd for the grade
Tufatango Route: Got it second go. Went to the wrong tufa on the first go as it’s a maze of amazing holds
Jackkitchen

Jumanji Route: Superb!
Boubouki EXT Route: Not easy at the crux. Powerful climbing on polished holds and footholds. Nice exposure and length. Good route. Thank god for cold and crisp conditions today.
Pontiki sto Tiri EXT Route: Polished in the crux. Not easy at all/well harder than its neighbourto the right. Great and easy pocket-pulling after the kneebar. Fun route!
Tufatango Route: Good fun on big holds.
HaeMeS

Yoko M-Ono Route: Amazing route, different than others here – cool pockets!
“Chuck Notis extension Route: Nice 50 meters trip with good rests between chains, tricky top 🙂
Michał Kwiatkowski “

Pontiki sto Tiri Route: Slipped off at the start on the first go. Lowered off and got it clean second time round. Nice route, eases off after the first few bolts.
Tufatango Route: Was I just knackered or was this well harder than the other routes we did? Felt well stiff for the grade, but then I was tired and climbed this rather badly.
ulbau

Glamour on the Rock Route: horrible move far right didnt like the concept of a swinging fall and was first climb of the day
Sinter Symphonie Route: just one rest before the belay – went right a bit should have gone left- possibly the best tufa ive ever done
cayteye

Bon Voyage Route: Tough through the initial bulge
Yoko M-ono Route: Very nice
adamsriches

El Gecko Route: 2 attempts. Onsight lost to cheeky hold that flew off the wall and onto James’ head! 2nd attempt even better though !!!
Yoko M-ono Route: Amazing!
zippetyzoo

El Gecko Route: Lovely techy climbing
Drop City Route: Via the direct start. Brilliant quality
Drop City Direct Route: 1st RP, good bouldery start.
Chuck Notis Route: Awesome route!
JayAyBee

Pontiki Sto Tyri ext Route: Pretty tired at the end of the day, after retrieving the stuck rope 🙂
Oeil de Boeuf Route: Great end of the trip. Heartbreater move up high and the I suddendly couldn’t do the start anymore 🙂 Bouldery and never ever 8a. Good times with Neele.
Lukas .

Mystere Et Boule De Gomme Route: Climbed the first pitch soaking wet and then completely fucked up the extension, which didn’t make for a nice climbing experience. Have to come back when dry and with a plan.
Drop City Route: Nice climb with a short crux.
Walter Strbad

Pontiki Sto Tyri ext Route: Rad moves on dreamy holds. Outstandingly good!
NASA Route: One to keep you on your toes after much Mars jug hauling.
Marin Bonk

Boubouki Route: I didn t commit into the start crux, missed the os, clipped 2nd bolt, get down directly then sent with first 2 draws pre-clipped.
Biosphare Route: but still 6b; good holds but you have to keep focus from bottom to top to find your way.
Black Hole Route: Early crimpy crux, then just pleasure.
Jerome Lecat

Boubouki Route: Nice Tufa action all the way. The start is the hardest part.
Kathrin Ziegler
Pontiki Sto Tyri ext Route: Tufas lead into perfect and pumpy pocket pulling. More of this please!
Biosphare Route: Forgot to clip the bolts as I enjoyed the flow so much. Very good climbing on pockets.
Drop City Route: Start Jumanji, crimp over the crux into a beautiful pocketed wall.
Kathrin Ziegler

Bon Voyage Route: Sharp rock and a little bit earthy at the top
Boubouki Route: Gets 6c in the new guidebook! Crux at the start then just pumpy
Sinter Symphonie Route: Superb route- worth queuing for!
vickydavies

Yoko M-Ono Route: Start on tufas, then lots of pockets – really nice tour.
Drop City Route: Nice one, so many good pockets in the upper part!
Verena Aigner

Pontiki sto Tiri Extension Route: Good holds to go over he roof, but small undercut before reaching the massive hole where you can put a knee bar and rest. And then the post-crux stress kicks in 🙂 Superb route!
Spaceman Spiff Extension Route: Pass the hard pulling of the roof on good holds and its all done. An excellent 38m trip
Luis SD

Boubouki Route: 38m overhanging with tufas and pockets, got really pumped
Marci Fidy
Drop City Route: Enjoyed climbing, amazing wall.
Marci Fidy

Yoko M-ono Route: Nice wall climbing on small pockets Ceuse style. Quality
Boubouki Extension Route: Nice long gently overhanging line with a tricky section about mid height and keeps the interest going til the chains ! Sunny when we got to the crag, began raining literally as I pulled onto the route !
Pontiki sto Tiri Extension Route: Awesome long line with some easy tufa to get you going followed by a pumpy funky crux section past the first chains climbing through the steep & off-leaning shoulder to reach the upper wall on mostly flat slots & pockets – some bizarre body positions & a nice steady cut-loose move ! Good headwall on pockets & a couple of crimps at the tricky bit. High in the grade or at least felt it on a humid damp day & absolute class !
Spaceman Spiff Extension Route: Good tufa lower wall into a bouldery big roof on good pockets followed by a quality headwall on pockets and a finishing tufa pipe. Easier than Poutiki by half a grade though crux pockets felt even more greasy – it was raining for all my three climbs today making some pockets on all lines feel bad, relieved on every climb to find the upper wall dry though.
Tufatango Route: Closer to 6b but nice tufa to get your hands on
Mystère et Boule de Gomme Ext Route: Third go – Blew the OS at what for me was a single move crux, tried the standard method using undercut pocket hold but felt too cramped in for me, actually think this suits shorter climbers better – then discovered a mono which tho makes a big move seemed to work well. Dropped it second go catching the hole lip but pinging off then back again today and nailed it first go. Other method involves a knee bar and is less powerful and more steady but pulling on the mono tho a bit of a on/off head game is a fantastic move! Some pumpy climbing on greasy rock approaching the crux, a few moves still to make moving left on slopers exiting the crux & left again onto some brown rock(some chalk exiting more right from here which is easier but less good) , then into easier ground climbing another superb headwall. Class line !
Chuck Notis Route: Good independant line to the first lower-off on tufa & small slots
Chuck Notis Ext 1 Route: Second go – Burly, pumpy crux through the bulge moving left from the first lower-off(skipping the clip recommended) into a good headwall on pockets, another impressive long line. Grade defined by the crux – Bypassing the crux moving right past the lower-off is possible (and was tried by some Austrian climber today when he lobbed off going left approaching the intended crux section) but is clearly off-route despite previous chalk marks, apparently goes at 7b+
Lost in Space Route: Second go – 52m of awesome climbing ! A hard lower tufa section over the first bulge and a difficult pull on an awkward greasy pocket I could only get my back two tips into at an angle ! Midway some varied trad like climbing with one long run out(5m on tenuos bridging – felt a bit greasy in the heat ) and then into some pumpy steeper climbing taking you to a hard sequence moving left & crossing thru on slopers then back right round the arete with a sweet move to get established onto the final tricky headwall on small pockets. Long, but with three good rest points (which I guess if you milked them would bring the grade down) Possibly 7c without milking the rests (as per the guide) but I’ll take the holiday tick on our last day in 30c heat & nil wind. Fantastic & memorable long line !
Oeil de Boeuf Route: Brilliant long line with 3 long crux sections – the midway crux is amazing involving some sweet moves on a gently overhanging slab on crimps & pockets. Climbed it all the way(40m) first go in 1 hr – felt like 7c+ to me, powerful tufa lower crux and hard techy upper cruxes with still some work to do at the finish. Fuckin well good.
Mat Welsh

Yoko M-ono Route: 2nd go, tried it as a warm up but there is a tricky bit near the start which was a bit much on warm up! Mat found an easier way to do it but I stuck with my mad beta. Really enjoyable wall full of pockets after the tufa start. Boss line!
Boubouki Extension Route: Beautiful line! And so much fun. Fell off at the end of the pumpy section on first attempt, one move from the jug! Worked out some beta and got it 2nd go but used different beta! Many options! One of the best routes I’ve done here so far!
Pontiki sto Tiri Route: Totally crazy to get this much tufa at this grade! So fun.
Spaceman Spiff Route: Thought this was the most technical tufa climbing of the first pitches I did here, interesting movement on lovely tufa with a small sting in the tail!
Spaceman Spiff Extension Route: Pleased to get this done on 3rd go as the crux through the roof is really not my style 🙂 really fun mix of tufa, burly moves and a pocket filled head wall. Very satisfying to get finished!
Tufatango Route: Great warm up! Super fun climbing. All good tufa holds!
Mystère et Boule de Gomme Route: Really brilliant line! Lovely flowing tufa pulling all the way. Really lovely climbing!
Mystère et Boule de Gomme Ext Route: Oh what a satisfying climb! Surprise ascent placing draws, first attempt of the day!!! We spent the morning at Elona then afternoon here after a lunch break in town so I wasn’t executing anything! Boss line, in the end the mash up of two methods worked. Knee bar ninja skills again on this one! As soon as I got to the stand up rest at the big break I knew it was on! Really enjoyed the process of working this one, not my style so very happy to get it done! Bouldery sustained crux after the first pitch then if you keep your head it’s sound to the chains.
N.A.S.A. Route: Cheeky last route of the trip! Initially questioned if I was on the right route because it is not where near 7a until you get to the last 1/3, then you get a great bouldery committing sequence on little pockets. I really enjoyed this one! Climbed better than it looked and you get the dizzy exposure with it being over the drop! Super fun!
Emilysaladfingers

Boubouki Extension Route: Fantastic route.
Pontiki sto Tiri Extension Route: Hard. Pumped out of my box! Excellent route 5*
Spaceman Spiff Extension Route: Awesome route . A grade easier than Pontiki Extension .
awsomal

Yoko M-ono Route: Really good. Positive pockets and absorbing till the belay.
Drop City Route: Active rest day for me. Great route with a definite crux. 6c+ without this one move.
Boubouki Extension Route: Suffering from it’s own success. Getting very worn, alas.
Pontiki sto Tiri Extension Route: An amazingly good route.
Spaceman Spiff Extension Route: One of the best but getting polished as a result
Mystère et Boule de Gomme Ext Route: Definite crux which would be harder for the short. I admit to using my knee at one point when I misread the exit from the crux sequence. Needs must sometimes.
Chuck Notis Route: Downgraded to 7a in the new guide but felt like 7a+ to me.
Chuck Notis Ext 1 Route: I felt it was only 7b the way I did it and makes for a more balanced route in my opinion. Basically from the first bolt above the first belay go right before going up. If you go directly past the bolt leftwards it is probably 7c. I tried it briefly when stripping the route; footholds very polished going direct.
Oeil de Biche Route: Shares start with 8a but onsight thereafter. Both hard sections can be bypassed; the top of the slab by going right and the top overhanging wall by going left. Only 7c if you do it this way, as I did.
Oeil de Boeuf Route: Easy for the grade. 7c+ in France but pleased to have redpointed it first go in a day. Three boulder problems with good rests before and after each one.
Eduardo Martinez

Jumanji Route: Surprisingly awesome pocket section up high.
Humidity Lesson Route: Yes, too humid for me it would seem. I actually nearly got through the start boulder on the onsight attempt but then got progressively worse each attempt thereafter.
Speckschüttel Dyno Route: Several attempts on the start, then onsight from there to top. Top is nicely technical face climbing.
Boubouki Route: First route in Leonidio! Tufa blob action at 6b+. Great!
Boubouki EXT Route: Yes, very amazing. Some quite hard fingery pocket moves.
Pontiki sto Tiri Route: I feel fortunate to do these routes now before 5 more years of traffic polishes them to a high gloss.
Pontiki sto Tiri EXT Route: This was off the charts good. The deep pockets in the upper overhung wall are too good to be true, but true they are.
Sinter Symphony Route: It doesn’t get any more 3D at the grade than this. Full on tufa action. Incredible at 6b.
Spaceman Spiff Route: Last route of the day and felt actually quite hard on the way to the extension. Arms burning.
Spaceman Spiff EXT Route: Blasting out the roof on pockets, feet flicking left and right. Pretty super
Chuck Notis EXT Route: End of day “what’s left in the tank” shot. I think every hold on this extension was a pocket. Pretty damn cool. I ran out of draws and had an ~8m runout to the anchor. Lowered off right on dusk.
Oeil de biche Route: Athletic cage fighting on tufas and shallow pockets in steep ground, a weird slab, then a spectacular finale on juggy holes and tufa fins.
Oeil de Bœuf Route: First few bolts shared with Oeil de Biche, then goes right and up forever. I was “off” in about 5 places and managed to somehow get through with a combination of blind luck, rogue kneebars and when all else failed, dynoing. Soooo good.
Pathfinder Route: I was dead positive I was on the 6a+, hence sneakers and a casual approach, which quickly turned into a gripping warm up. Just what the doctor ordered.
Lee Cujes

Tufatango Route: Quite simply: tufatastic. Loads of big holds, semi-rests, and no real hard moves. v physical mind
N.A.S.A. Route: A very different style this to the tufa dominance of the main wall. Crozzly moon rock (a little suspect in places) gives steady technical climbing until the disappointing finish, with a desperate bouldery scramble through small pockets
John Cuthbert

Spaceman Spiff Route: Amazing route, with a delicate ending!
E.S.A. Route: Strange entrance, than slab climbing
David (Chibo) Rodrigues

Speckschüttel Dyno Route: Fell of the crux, came down and managed second go. Steady afterwards.
Chuck Notis Ext 1 Route: Second go – fluffed the crux just off the first set of chains on the OS 🙁
Chuck Notis Ext 2 Route: Amazing position – only one hard move on it and you get a hands free after the 7c. Rock a bit crusty though. Couldn’t face climbing the whole thing again though!
quiffhanger

Biosphare Route: Good warm-up! Many moves, just a few “hard” ones. Still some vegetation in the pockets -> needs more traffic, than it will become really good
Glamour On The Rock Route: Big flake to start with then moves over to the dihedral on the right. Warms up your legs and feet properly 😛
drop city direct Route: Tricky boulder crux in the overhang to start with (hook action), no-hand-rest, crux of the 7a version and lots of moves till you finally reach the chains @ 35 m 🙂 Some reachy moves, but there might be different beta
Spiders From Mars Route: Needs more traffic, still some vegetation in the pockets. Good climbing, very good warm-up!
Christoph Barthel