HotRock Sector
HOT ROCK is one of the most popular crags in Leonidio, with exceptional views of Leonidio and the sea. Climbing on well-featured vertical grey and red rock and well-equipped routes by the Remy Brothers (2013). Read More
Address
Climb in Leonidio: HotRock Sector
Phone
21 Routes
See more information
HotRock Sector
HOT ROCK is one of the most popular crags in Leonidio, with exceptional views of Leonidio and the sea. Climbing on well-featured vertical grey and red rock and well-equipped routes by the Remy Brothers (2013).
Direction: South
Sun: all day
Approach
Drive to Baskina until the sixth turn, follow the path. 10 minutes.
Drive to Baskina until the sixth turn, follow the path. 10 minutes.
| HotRock Sector | Grade | m |
| Warm Up | 6a+ | 26 |
| Kurz | 6a | 25 |
| Kurz Extension | 6c | 35 |
| Porno Stars | 6a+ | 25 |
| Porno Stars Extension | 7b | 35 |
| Kairos | 6c+/7b | 37 |
| Kalo | 6c/7a | 37 |
| Draculine | 6c | 37 |
| Roze | 6b+ | 30 |
| Krassi | 6b | 35 |
| Sympatiki | 7a+ | 30 |
| Hot Rock | 7a | 25 |
| String Climbing | 7a+ | 25 |
| Drasi | 6b+ | 25 |
| Helen | 6c | 30 |
| Hotel Hatzi | 6c+ | 30 |
| OYK | 7a+ | 37 |
| Commando | 7a | 38 |
| Mayor | 6a+ | 40 |
| Ianis | 6b | 25 |
| Bugaboo | 6c | 25 |
Video
UKC
TheGrag
8a
Google
Facebook 
Twitter 
Google+
via E-mail 
Porno Stars Route: Good wall face/climbing.
Kalo Route: Exceptional route. Superb face climbing followed by an easier bulge.
Ianis Route: A couple of falls at the bulge. Hard moves on finger pockets. Bit tough for 6b.
robw007
Hot Rock Route: Good small edges most of the way. Last route of the trip, nothing left in the tank on day 8. Project to come back to.
Mayor Route: Brilliant 40 m fun climb in corner, involving some laybacking.
ZJO
Hot Rock Route: Great techy climbing.
String Climbing Route: Tricky to read crux.
OYK Route: Superb. More sustained than other 7’s on this wall
Rich Kirby
Sympatiki Route: Sharp crimping. Drew blood on one of my finger joints near the top.
Hot Rock Route: Great techy route. Mandy seconded it cleanly.
OYK Route: The longest, the hardest and the best route on Hot Rocks. Magnificent. 7b.
Commando Route: Had to wait for an Italian couple to finish dogging their way up the route. They spend 1 and half hours on it, leaving me just 10 mins before dark to get it done. Fantastic route and a grade, possibly two, easier than OYK. Left the crag in total darkness, our last day of our trip.
Eduardo Martinez
OYK Route: Tried it for the first time during easter 2017 and didn’t stand a chance. Same for easter 2018, when I also gave it just one try. Maybe it felt just a little more possible. Then during this trip it finally went on the first try. Such an incredible feeling to see, how I have progressed. The route was always on my mind, when thinking of Leonidio. Couldn’t be more happy with the outcome of this story. Gitta and Liam did it too on the same day. Beers were in order. The route has it all, crips, slab, tufa, overhang, layback, you name it.
Commando Route: Did it because OYK was occupied. Enjoyed the hell out of it, felt the flow and got the onsight. Yay!
Bugaboo Route: Had to rush through the top part, because of heavy rain starting to fall. Never climbed this fast.
Kurz extension Route: Ugly crux and some loose rock in the dihedral… I’d advise to just lower off at the first anchor and leave it at that. Last route of great 4 days in Leonidio with Jakob.
Clemens Gersmann
Kurz Extension Route: Interesting little number this. The 6c kicks in burly right from the lower off of the 6a, and then finishes with a v. thin move where it wasn’t possible to clip the bolt until it was all over. a fall here wouldn’t be fun, so if would say it’s ‘poor bolting’, especially given how friendly the 6a is. some v. loose rock on the crozzles above, so care needed on an otherwise enjoyable finish
Krassi Route: Badly graded this. Consensus seems to be hard 6b+, which sounds like, and felt like 6c to me. v. thin lower tufaery/pocket section spat several folk off the day I was there, whilst the final crux section of thin, super-techy moves on strange orange crozzles seemed to bamboozle. I loved it, but even then I was a little taken by surprise thinking I was on 6b. Also more like 35m, and 14QDS are needed, not 13 as per the guidebook.
Mayor Route: A long line that is less than generously bolted lower down, and whilst better bolted above, the laybacking proves to be even trickier. Got a bit bored with it…fortunately, as others have noted, the length is now 38m with 17QDs.
John Cuthbert
Sympatiki Route: Nice and technical , crux off the top using a torqued 2 finger pocket
Hot Rock Route: Thought this was nice, and low in the grade. No real crux, long thin move in the middle, and a bit of a tricky finish
String Climbing Route: One move wonder. 6c climbing but there’s a hard move/clip in the middle of the tufa (I went out right incorrectly). Pretty soft, but intense
George_Surf
Sympatiki Route: Sharp crimps to easier climbing to a crux on pockets. Good, but not as good as both routes to the right.
Oyk Route: Lovely red & sharp crimpy rock. Big pitch with fun end. Good route!
HaeMeS
Warm Up Route: Lovely route. The top is interesting if you stay on the bolts.
Kurz Route: Lovely route never desperate but tough at the top
Porno Stars Route: Really good. A couple of hard sections but lots of good climbing.
Porno Stars Extension Route: Put the clips in and sent it 1st RP. Boulder problem in the sky. might be worth 7b+?
Kairos Route: Hard and pretty thin, excellent climbing.
Kalo Route: Really nice 6c. It’s sustained rather than desperate and the finish is a contrast to the lower wall.
Krassi Route: Pretty thin for a couple of bolts. Worth a solid 6b+
Drasi Route: Really good. Some of the holds were wet and others had a clay type feel to them that may have made this feel harder than it should. She’s getting a little tired in places too. Felt stiff 6c in today’s conditions.
Commando Route: Simply superb route. Some interesting route reading puzzles and contrasting sections of climbing. This is hard for 7a, might be worth a +.
Bugaboo Route: Vicky tried this and backed off about 8 bolts in and said it was pretty thin. She wasn’t joking! Really hard crimpy pulls and a slightly dodgy looking finish. This is way harder than Helen and is probably closer to 7a.
SGD
String Climbing Route: Quite enjoyed this one. Thought I was off at one point and nearly let the fear creep in by shouting taking or grabbing the qd but managed to make one more move which changed everything!
Drasi Route: I don’t remember much about this route other than the bottom was trickier than the top, and the top was quite pleasant climbing. At the time I thought either tough 6b+ or soft 6c. Not really a great warm up as the movement is quite slow….
Commando Route: Fell on the onsight at the main crux (upper) but went surprisingly smoothly on the first Redpoint attempt. There’s a lower crux which involves a relatively committed move left then the upper crux is similar but with worse holds. Take lots of extenders…
Rockmonkey1977
Krassi Route: A bit tired on this. Nearly messed up gaining the final traverse but found the right line just in time
Ianis Route: One hard move at the roof. Hardest move of the day
harold walmsley
Porno Stars Extension Route: Never 7c, but a pretty intense section of climbing straight above the lower off
OYK Route: Think this has been affected by some major rockfall – there’s no longer a big flake at the top, but a fairly hefty rock scar. Instead of laybacking to the chains, its now quite sustained and technical crimping which for me was the crux. Feels a bit harder than 7a+, maybe 7b or low 7b+.
JBO
Commando Route: long, steady, homogeneous, interesting
Porno Stars extension Route: One hard move from very sharp hold
Leonid Grigorenko
Helen Route: but harder than Drasi 6b+ on its left. First 6c flash. Belayed by Paulette who did it as her first 6c os.
Mayor Route: A nice one for dihedrals fans. “spoiler”30m 5c route then a 6a/+ crux in the last 10m.
Krassi Route: One tough and short 6a+ crux half way up and a tricky 6a traverse to get to the top.Could be 6b+.
Jerome Lecat
Mayor Route: Been shortened, new lower-off below top of corner. Ledge at top now covered in rubble and top lower-off and one bolt without hangers. Given 6a+ in new guide.
Bugaboo Route: Tough for grade, harder than the 7a’s we’ve done.
pauldrew
Helen Route: Good route on Tufa pockets
Kalo Route: Crimpy wall climbing. Good and long.
Hotel Hatzi Route: Very good and not really harder than Helen
Mayor Route: Wow! What a line! Really good climbing in Crack/Dihedral
Kathrin Ziegler
Draculine Route: Hotrock is indeed hot… nice slabby to vertical climbing
Hot Rock Route: Felt as hard as any other 7a+ I climbed this week – may have been a little warm…… great route.
DavidEvans
Hotel Hatzi Route: Nice technical climbing on vertical rock. Can be wet at the top.
OYK Route: Hard Crux low down on small edges. Then nice moves up to the giant flake of victory.
David McLean
OYK Route: Several crimpy passages in the lower part. Great climbing, mind-endurance. 7a+ according to the 2018 guidebook.
Commando Route: Left around the little roof. I like that hole where you switch hands :).
Hotel Hatzi Route: Some nice moves. Went right to the rappel station.
Yogy W-Man
Roze Route: I thought this was quite a stiff warm up up. It almost put me off for the day! Great route though.
Wise
String Climbing Route: Great sequence getting round the tufa. Found it pretty hard and almost greased off.
Drasi Route: Just a short hard section, quite a friendly lead.
Wise
Roze Route: Scary for a warm up! Glad I had the draws in!
Mayor Route: Freaked out at the top moves of corner trickery so came down!
vickydavies
String Climbing Route: Cool, one balancy section on the tufa, rest is easy.
Oyk Route: Super nice and long. One short crux
Théophile Ruzicka
Helen Route: Shite route. 5times the same move. Pretty much used. And why are people putting chalk in masses on footholds? Really? Climbed the 6c+ to the right, didn‘t feel much easier.
Hotel Hatzi Route: Not the best at the crag
Porno Stars extension Route: 4th try on two trips. Went with left into the almost too good 2finger pocket adjusted feet, went up to the bad crimp changed feet again. Slapped to tufa on the left. Changed feet and did a BiG move to the not so obvious hole to the right (actually a jug). pressed a vertical foot hold, clipped and went up left. Reposition right foot and over to the top of the bulge (hold is best on the left). Left foot up, right up blind and to the big obvious hole. Done. 🙂
Sampatiki Route: Nice one. Two distinct cruxes. Too many good rests for the grade.
Mayor Route: Pretty used at the top. Reachy, but good rests. Stemming needed.
Bugaboo Route: Very inhomogenious. Easy, hard and reachy on crimps then easy again
Markus Glueck
OYK Route: Awesome 38 meters of faceclimbing on blood-red-rock, definitly a must do!
Porno Stars extension Route: Sorry to say it girls and guys; not even close to 7b! Soft 7a I’ll say. Altough it is a really nice route!
Arvid Knegt
Kairos Route: One of the best routes I have ever done, sustained quality, move after move but worth the 6c in the guides.
Sympatiki Route: Hard crux boulder problem just before the lower off
Hot Rock Route: Superb climbing.
Hotel Hatzi Route: Unexpected big whipper just before last bolt when hand popped out of a surprise wet undercut.
OYK Route: Truly excellent route but a bit worrying at flake at the lower off, it’s massive and seems sound….!
Mayor Route: Seems endless, 80m just enough!
sheppy
Porno Stars Extension Route: Gets 7b in the guidebook. Not sure what I’d give it but 7c seems generous. 4 or 5 desperate but fun moves then it eases off.
Krassi Route: Technical and fun!
Drasi Route: Bit run out compared to other routes here but really interesting route
OYK Route: Sustained and varied with a few small crimps. Awesome route
rosiehawker
String Climbing Route: Slipped off moving on to the tufa. 7a max.
Hotel Hatzi Route: Been quite ill the last few days and felt rough this morning. Ended up doing quite a few good routes.
Theo Moore
OYK Route: 40m long technical climbing on nearly vertical wall, lots of crimps
String Climbing Route: 7a+/b, hard boulder sequence in the middle
Marci Fidy
Kalo Route: Nice crimpy route, not so obvious, sustained – I’m not sure where the crux was.
Kairos Route: The crimpy middle part was much harder for me then the overhanging top.
Mateusz Gajczewski
Sympatiki Route: Sharp crimping and some tenuous moves.
Hot Rock Route: Tough crux with lots of interest before and after; satisfying
String Climbing Route: Slightly butch moves at the tufa but felt easier than Hot Rock and Oyk.
OYK Route: Sustained: a very long succession of brutally crimpy sequences separated by half rests. Felt harder than all the other single pitch 7s here (although that might be due to the lack of a warm-up).
Commando Route: A long slightly meandering route. Lots of short hard sequences split by rests – painful crimping and some tenuous moves, sandy rock added spice.
thebigfriendlymoose
OYK Route: Very nice and Long. All the way interesting. also soft grade.
Commando Route: Very nice Long technical Route. Soft grading
Porno Stars extension Route: Nice Route powerful short overhanging Part. Easy for the Grade like all routes in this sector. Like the guidebook says feelgood-grades. Didnt saw an obvious big jug at the crux and messed up the onsight, but nevertheless very nice and unexpected afternoon at the crag.
Sören Schritt
Kairos Route: Good technical wall climbing, especially above half height with a small tufary overlap for the possible crux up top. Gets 7a in Greece Sport climbing: best of and 6c in the new guide. I’d split the difference and go for 6c+. (One thing’s for sure 6b+ would be one of the biggest sandbags going).
Kalo Route: More superb and sustained wall climbing. There’s one very hard move to get into the top groove. Greece Sport Climbing: best of, has it as 6c+, I’d settle for 6c.
Mayor Route: Great climbing up a huge long groove. Steady and pretty easy for 6b. Good and long, probably 42m, but you can down-climb relatively easy ground at the start if like me you only have a 70m rope
Dave Turnbull
Hot Rock Route: Nice climb on good ledges,…maybe a little reachy!
Marc Bourdon
Porno Stars Route: Pretty good rock, actually.
Marc Bourdon