Grande Cuckoo Sector
GRANDE CUCKOO is a small crag on a compact, steep grey slab of good quality. It's technical, fingery wall climbing at its best, with a few tufa columns, too. Routes were equipped via the AOS Project (2013/14). Read More
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Climb in Leonidio: Grande Cuckoo Sector
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Grande Cuckoo Sector
GRANDE CUCKOO is a small crag on a compact, steep grey slab of good quality. It’s technical, fingery wall climbing at its best, with a few tufa columns, too. Routes were equipped via the AOS Project (2013/14).
Direction: South
Sun: all day
Approach
Drive from Leonidio to Kosmas for 4km. You stop 100 meters after the bridge in the area H.A.D.A. At the right turn in front of the fence you can see the field. The trail starts 50 meters after the fence – watch out for the bees. A total of 10 minutes.
Drive from Leonidio to Kosmas for 4km. You stop 100 meters after the bridge in the area H.A.D.A. At the right turn in front of the fence you can see the field. The trail starts 50 meters after the fence – watch out for the bees. A total of 10 minutes.
| Grande Cuckoo Sector | Grade | m |
| Formage | 6a/6a+ | 30 |
| No Breakfast No Glory | 6b+ | 25 |
| Sophie the Giraffe | 6b/6b+ | 25 |
| Micra Picra | 6c+/7a | 30 |
| Klimataria | 6b | 25 |
| Tsachpinis | 6a+/6b | 25 |
| Raccoon | 6b | 25 |
| Beboucian | 6a/6a+ | 22 |
| Penguin | 4a/4b | 12 |
| Nestsitter | 6b | 25 |
| Over-Slab | 6a/6b | 10 |
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Micra Picra Route – Superb! pleasure slab climbing!
Adam “Gaduła” Karpierz
Sophie the Giraffe Route – A fantastic climb. Most of it is a sustained 6a climbing with some bridging in the begining and a nice tufa finish. The crux in the mid section is definitely a hard 6b+. Fell 3 times on the crux move while leading and then top ripped ground up.
Klimataria Route – The top mid section is quite a hard slab climb. Didn’t have the feet for it today. Dogged it with 2 rests.
Tsachpinis Route – Very nice climb but way too hard for a 6a+ a 6b is more appropriate. Failed the onsight attempt with too much hesitating in the mid section. Red point on the second attempt.
Beboucian Route – First climb of the day. Good climb but found it a bit too challenging for a 6a.
Alexey
Sophie the Giraffe Route – Excellent climbing with a very definite crux section in the middle.
Micra Picra Route – Superb steep slab climbing with some very thin moves but a good rest on a tufa rescues your toes. 6c+/7a?? I don’t know.
Tsachpinis Route – Very good and sustained.
SGD
Formage Route – Excellent grey slab climbing and not a push over at this grade.
No Breakfast No Glory – One tricky section in the middle. Didn’t spot the crucial pocket in time first go.
Sophie the Giraffe Route – Good climb with the crux in the middle again. The tufa finish is fun but not hard.
Micra Picra Route – Pleased to on sight this. Only 6c+ in recent guides which is probably correct but it certainly needs a bit of fancy footwork on the crux.
Raccoon Route – Awkward, steep and quite sustained for the grade but well worthwhile. Shares a few holds with the route to its left at the start.
Dave Musgrove