Douvari Sector
DOUVARI, an extension of sorts of sectors Orama and Rocspot, shares the description of those sectors: popular, easy and mid-grade, well-protected single pitches, fantastic views. Read More
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Climb in Leonidio: Douvari Sector
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Douvari Sector
DOUVARI, an extension of sorts of sectors Orama and Rocspot, shares the description of those sectors: popular, easy and mid-grade, well-protected single pitches, fantastic views.
Direction: South
Sun: all day
Approach
Drive towards Baskina and turn on the second turn right on the dirt road towards the water tank. The trail is 250 meters later on the left with red signs. 25 minutes
Drive towards Baskina and turn on the second turn right on the dirt road towards the water tank. The trail is 250 meters later on the left with red signs. 25 minutes
| Douvvari Sector | Grade | m |
| 48 Ores | 6a | 30 |
| Rammstein in Leonidio | 6a+ | 32 |
| Botsalo | 5c | 30 |
| Hilti Maniac Direct | 5b | 32 |
| Hilti Maniac | 5a | 32 |
| Metallica | 5c | 35 |
| Palikaria | 5b | 28 |
| Argo | 5b | 28 |
| Je suis Charlie | 5a | 30 |
| Cabu | 5c | 25 |
| Holiday in Cambodia | 5a | 22 |
| Holiday in Cambodia Extension | 6a | 32 |
| Rock Cleaner | 5a | 20 |
| Rock Cleaner Extension | 6a | 30 |
| Margarita | 5c | 22 |
| Margarita Extension | 6a+ | 32 |
| Mini Einstein | 5b | 25 |
| Mini Einstein Extension | 5c | 32 |
| Rodomelo | 4b | 20 |
| Rodomelo Extension | 6b | 35 |
| Mouria | 5a | 20 |
| Mouria Extension | 6a+ | 35 |
| Myrtoon | 5b | 20 |
| Myrtoon Extension | 6b | 35 |
| Kefala | 5b | 22 |
| Kefala Extension | 6b+ | 40 |
| Samatas | 5b | 22 |
| Samatas Extension 1 | 6b | 30 |
| Samatas Extension 2 | 6c+ | 40 |
| Zamanfou | 5c | 22 |
| Zamanfou Extension | 6c+ | 40 |
| Metaxotos | 6a+ | 33 |
| Metaxotos Extension | 6c+ | 40 |
| Dokimos | 6a+ | 25 |
| Dokimos Extension | 6c | 33 |
| Faka | 6a+ | 22 |
| Faka Extension | 6c | 33 |
| Alternative Facts | 7a+ | 245 (7 pitches) |
| Erotas Above the City | 6a | 22 |
| Erotas Above the City Extension | 6b+ | 33 |
| Silk | 5c | 25 |
| Pillar of Fire Left Variation | 6b | 80 (3 pitches) |
| Pillar of Fire | 6a+ | 220 (8 pitches) |
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Hilti maniac Route: Very good for the grade!
Metallica Route: Enjoyable slab with a vertical crux on good holds. Just below the vertical part there only one easy sequence (to the sidepull pocket)
Tobias Auth
Holiday in Cambodia Route: Last climb of the trip! Great to finish on something so fun
Rock Cleaner Route: Nice climb and amazing views of the town from the top (as with all climbs at this sector).
Myrtoon Route: Went the wrong way at the crux. Otherwise a good climb.
Mon Walker
Holiday in Cambodia Ext Route: Good extension. Ideal for climbers with kids as the anchor on the first section is the lowest at the sector
Rock Cleaner Route: Climbed with the extension. Another fun jug haul with a tiny bit of spice to finish.
Margarita Route: Gets a 5b in the guidebook. I think 5c is on the money. The holds start to get small towards the top.
Margarita ext Route: Spicy little extension. Adds great value to the climb. Definitely don’t stop at the midpoint anchors for this one.
Mini Einstein Route: Climbed with extension. Good for leaders at the grade.
Myrtoon Route: 5a for this one. Climbed with extension.
Myrtoon Ext Route: This was a goodie. Only got through by the skin of my teeth
Samatas Route: Good warmup for the extension. Save the arms for the top.
Andrew Lightfoot
Rammstein in Leonidio Route: Enjoyed it, but definitely the hardest of the few 6a+ climbs of the day
Hilti Maniac Route: Done the direct and Anna lead the side one
Margarita Route: Done with extension
Mouria Route: A bit boring first pitch but a great climb on the extension
Mouria Extension Route: Great climb
Alexey
Je suis Charlie Route: Fun long route. Lost a foothold midway up though which startled me
Holiday in Cambodia Extension Route: Got a little lost at the undercling
Margarita Route: I meant to extend it but wasn’t feeling it when I was up there.
Mini Einstein Extension Route: I led P1, Amy led P2. Good intro to Multipitch for Amy. Fun route to do
Dokimos Route: Fun. Really pumpy near the end though.
Erotas Above the City Route: Tough finish
Silk Route: Very slabby moves, good fun.
Sam Hill
Argo Route: Good top wall with not so obvious holds
Mini Einstein Route: Steep for a section. I didn’t do the extension which Phil did and Pete made look hard!
Rob Davies
Kefala Extension Route: One fall, hit a pocket wrong wasnt expecting to need finger strength
Samatas Extension 2 Route: Missed the pop, build feet to do, will comeback for it
acrkirby
Samatas Extension 2 Route: Really hard. Felt every inch a 7a to me. There is a hard deadpoint move directly above the 6b belay into a pumpy rest followed by another bouldery section on prickly rock. Very good but hard!
Faka Extension Route: Excellent. Lovely technical wall climb.
SGD
Zamanfou extension Route: Too much loose rock!
Myrtoon extension Route: Really nice route, with a beautifull ending with nice holds, but a loose rock part at the middle… :/
Thomas Jankowski
Zamanfou extension Route: flash. Rock quality is very bad. Worst route in Leonidio so far.
Holiday In Cambodia extension Route: First part is 4b, then steeper with a short 6a crux.
Jerome Lecat
Mouria Extension Route: Good flowing climbing. Definite notch easier than Myrtoon ext
Myrtoon Extension Route: Quite tough at the crux
Kefala Extension Route: Gets pretty steep and one crux bit to the bigger holds, 6c in Aris book
Zamanfou Extension Route: Pretty steep and hard moves to the bigger holds
abbeywall
Mini Einstein Route: A neat bit of climbing. Longer than most of the other first pitches on this sector. The moves in the last 5m leading to the rings must be close to 5c. They’re certainly worth 5b+
Mini Einstein Extension Route: A short extension, but a good bit of climbing. Probably worth 5c+, although my guide has it as a 6a.
Mouria Route: Quite short (15m?). Good interesting rock, but probably 4b. Certainly no way its a 5.
Mouria Extension Route: Great climbing up the steepening slab. Never too hard. Continuous good finger-holds as opposed to jugs. No one particularly hard move. My guide has it as 6b, which it could just about be.
Dave Turnbull
Mini Einstein extension Route: A bit harder & crimpier than ‘Holiday in Cambodia Extension’
Samatas Route: To the first belay; trickier than i thought
Holiday In Cambodia extension Route: Doesn’t look too good, but climbs really well
Christian Engelbrecht