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Climb in Leonidio: Elona Sector
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Elona Sector
το Μοναστήρι της Έλωνας είναι η απόδειξη ότι οι ντόπιοι είχαν έντονο το αίσθημα της πίστης στην περιοχή όπου χτίστηκε το μοναστήρι. Το πεδίο βρίσκεται ακριβώς δίπλα από το μοναστήρι. Όμορφος βράχος, ομαλός αλλά και απότομος, ίσως ο πιο εντυπωσιακός τομέας στο Λεωνίδιο.
Κατεύθυνση: Δυτική
Ηλιοφάνεια: μετά τις 2μμ
Προσέγγιση
Οδηγήστε από το Λεωνίδιο προς τον Κοσμά, μετά από 15km στρίβετε αριστερά στο δρομάκι για την Ι.Μ. Ελώνης. Σταματήστε στην είσοδο της μονής. Στα δεξιά σας θα δείτε δίπλα στον δρόμο το πεδίο. Συνολικά 1 λεπτό.
Οδηγήστε από το Λεωνίδιο προς τον Κοσμά, μετά από 15km στρίβετε αριστερά στο δρομάκι για την Ι.Μ. Ελώνης. Σταματήστε στην είσοδο της μονής. Στα δεξιά σας θα δείτε δίπλα στον δρόμο το πεδίο. Συνολικά 1 λεπτό.
| Elona Sector | Grade | m | |||
| 1 | Copper Pipe | 7c | 30 | ||
| 2 | Diet Dope | 7b | 25 | ||
| 3 | The Battle of Succession | 7c | 25 | ||
| 4 | The Battle of Succession Extension | 7c/8a | 25 | ||
| 5 | David Direct | Project | 30 | ||
| 6 | David | 8a | 30 | ||
| 7 | David Extension 1 | 8a+ | 40 | ||
| 8 | David Extension 2 | Project | 60 | ||
| 9 | Goliath | 7c | 35 | ||
| 10 | Goliath Extension | 8b | 60 | ||
| 11 | Natural Mystic | 8b+/8c | 35 | ||
| 12 | 10 Hispanos | 7c+ | 25 | ||
| 13 | 10 Hispanos Extension | 8a | 40 | ||
| 14 | Eisvoleas | 7c | 20 | ||
| 15 | Venganza del Silencio | 8a | 20 | ||
| 16 | On the Edge | 8a | 20 | ||
| 17 | Pope Star | 7c | 40 | ||
| 18 | Mávra Dákrya | 7b | 25 | ||
| 19 | Du Opfa | 8a+ | 25 | ||
| 20 | Du Opfa Extension | 8c+ | 40 | ||
| 21 | Skouliki | 7b+ | 20 | ||
| 22 | Kneebaropoulos | 7a+ | 25 | ||
| 23 | Kneebaropoulos Extension | 8b+ | 50 | ||
| 24 | Freefall | 7c+ | 30 | ||
| 25 | Free Fall Extension | 8b+ | 40 | ||
| 26 | Kopa Kabana | 7c+ | 30 | ||
| 27 | Kopa Kabana Extension | 8b | 37 | ||
| 28 | Jolly Jump | 8a+ | 30 | ||
| 29 | Jolly Jump Extension | Project | 40 | ||
| 30 | Die Heilige Dreifaltigkeit | 7b | 20 | ||
| 31 | Paranihida | 7a+ | 20 | ||
| 32 | Paranihida Extension 1 | 8a | 28 | ||
| 33 | Paranihida Extension 2 | 8b+ | 40 | ||
| 34 | Ernie | 7b+ | 20 | ||
| 35 | Bert | 7c | 20 | ||
| 36 | Insane in the Membrane | 7b | 20 | ||
| 37 | Insane Hanuman | Project | 30 | ||
| 38 | Hanuman | 7c | 20 | ||
| 39 | Hanuman Extension | 8c | 30 | ||
| 40 | At Tension | 7a+ | 15 | ||
| 41 | At Tension Extension | Project | 25 | ||
| 42 | Scorpion Venom | Project | 25 | ||
| 43 | Xima sto Kima | 8b/8c | 35 | ||
| 44 | Mr. Miyagi | 7c+/8a | 12 | ||
| 45 | Daniel San | 7c | 12 | ||
| 46 | Lolly Pope | 7a+ | 20 | ||
| 47 | Winter is Coming | 6c | 12 | ||
| 48 | Techno Berlin | 6c | 12 | ||
| 49 | Drigi Drigi Mana Mou | 7b+ | 25 | ||
| 50 | Cobra | 8a | 25 | ||
| 51 | El Ojo de Nazar | 7c | 25 | ||
| 52 | Lolek | 8a/8a+ | 20 | ||
| 53 | Bolek | 8a | 20 | ||
| 54 | Jazz Against the Machine | 7c+ | 20 | ||
| 55 | Silvester Alone | 7b+/7c | 20 | ||
| 56 | So Ill | 7a+ | 22 | ||
| 57 | Hopfigkeiten am Wirtschaustisch | 6c+/7a | 22 | ||
| 58 | White Rabbit | 6b+ | 15 | ||
| 59 | Cornflakes and Tahini | 6c+/7a | 22 | ||
| 60 | Ice Cream | 7a+/7b | 22 | ||
| 61 | I Scream | 7c | 22 | ||
| 62 | Bibo | 6a/6a+ | 20 | ||
| 63 | Last Chance for a Slow Dance | 6b+ | 20 | ||
| 64 | Gipsy Climb | 7c+ | 20 | ||
| 65 | Troubadix | 6c/6c+ | 14 | ||
| 66 | Majestix | 6b+ | 12 | ||
| 67 | Miraculix | 6c | 12 | ||
| 68 | Verleihnix | 6b | 12 | ||
| 69 | Muscule Shirt | 5b/5c | 12 | ||
| 70 | Idefix | 4b/5b | 12 | ||
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Paranihida Route – what a cool route! funky kneebars & no-hand rests. a bit hard to clip the anchor. happy to send this after 2 restdays. definitely harder than “Diet Dope”. very physical and intense: loved it!
Kneebaropoulos Route – Awesome route! Had to try hard to figure out all the kneebars: one of a kind. Surely unique tufa-climbing on pumpy,steep terrain. Great kneebar school!
Diet Dope Route – Took some time to finish this one: figuring out the right Beta & making use of the kneebars were essential. only 22m,but pumpy as hell on good tufas. so happy to send it 🙂
Peter Deetz
Diet Dope Route – Epic last day of the trip. All moves onsight/ flash (saw a beta photo for first crux) but there’s no jug at the top – fell with the last hold in my hands. The last few moves at the top are quite powerful and easier if you get the sequence right. Last hold is a fat lefthand pinch and/ or a thin righthand mini-colonnette. [the route was in the shade until 1pm.] Off to montañejos and hopefully off to germany tomorrow!
Kneebaropoulos Route – Didn’t trust my feet here. Only one other couple here today and conditions were great.
Tobias Auth
Diet Dope Route – This felt harder than 7b for me, but I’m not a tufa pro! Anyway, what a beautiful route, very physical, it’s a great endurance-on-tufas test!
S G
Winter is Coming Route – Really awesome route. Absolutely loved it! Was super close on my first redpoint go, just missing the big jug on the ledge. Managed it second redpoint (just).
Techno Berlin Route – Well psyched to onsight this. Wald and Theo did it to warm up and left the draws in (extending some) for me. Wald used his whole rack!! A couple of thin technical sections; one lower down and one just before the chains. Good fun.
Hopfigkeiten am Wirtschaustisch Route – A quick outing to Elona to meet the boys after my Skype interview. Not much time so Remus kindly put a top rope up for me. Had a quick go working out the beta and getting warm before a red point go. A really cool punchy route! Big moves lower down but fine with my sequence. The top to the chains had felt hard on the top rope. Not sure what I was doing as it felt pish on the lead!
Miraculix Route – Just could not work out how to get from the not so great holds on the slight roof / bulge section to the obvious good left side pull. Possibly a reachy route. Got sucked in trying to redpoint to keep my log book clean but sacked it off in the end as I was supposed to be saving myself for my project in the afternoon. My skin was already complaining!
Rocky
Ernie Route – Had a token flash go but fell off low down trying to get into a kneebar rest of seen someone else do. Would have fallen off many other times anyway. Worked out most of the moves and managed to pull through and do it second go. Cool moves with lots of knee scums.
Lolly Pope Route – Hardest route of the day, feel like this is more like 7b. Very techy and quite sustained, was nearly off a couple of times lower down, had to throw to the one good hold on the route! It’s not over until the chains are clipped.
Last Chance for a Slow Dance Route – Different and slightly intimidating but interesting. Get to take a fun swing off after stripping it.
shed_hed
Kneebaropoulos Route – 3 degrees C. lost feeling in hands. A few snowflakes wafted gently by. I got no kneebars, wtf. Amazing rock quality — we need to combe back when it’s a bit less cold.
Max Nanao
Kopa Kabana Route – One of the best! End of trip fatigue…a battle ensued. Clipped chains by skin of my teeth. Helen said it looked like I was falling off every move. 2nd RP.
Rich Kirby
Goliath Route – What an amazing route. Draws on bolt to bolt. 2nd lap still struggling to find the knee bars. 3rd shot smoked but much progress. Crux is tricky with the wet tufa. Draws back on. High point after crux on the 2nd, even higher on the 3rd and sent 4th as the clouds were rolling in. Stonker of a route.
Diet Dope Route – Onsight ended at the low crux. Then bolt to bolt, its a bit tricky. Sent next shot. Pumpy!
Paranihida Ext 1 Route – Looking for a project. Hardest bit is leaving the lower anchor, didn’t work this bit out as it was total spooge. Rest is all well doable. Might come back for this one.
Bert Route – Sent as my warm up today in terrible conditions. Maybe easy for the grade but rad.
Kneebaropoulos Route – Was bricked. Didnt find so many knee bars!
Jason McCarthy
Goliath Route – Classic! Pretty rare to do a tufa route that traverses! Great flash beta from Jase. Perfect way to wrap up the trip.
Venganza del Silencio Route – Kneebars to a short steep boulder on underclings, then more kneebars to what is ultimately a super techy tufa-slab. Great way to finish the trip (10th guidebook 8a), and was able to climb in the pouring rain – a bonus.
Bibo Route – Weird leaning corner. Crazy climbing at the grade. Do it! Sneakers.
Lee Cujes
Diet Dope Route – Brilliant route and finally some decent conditions shame it’s the last day of the trip.
The Battle of Succession – Excellent pumpy 7b to a total stopper boulder! Seems really mean at 7c I would have wanted at least 7c+ if not 8a if I had RP it!
Rankers
10 Hispanos Route – L1. 6th go. Shorter, steeper & more powerful than Goliath L1 (having the same top). Took me some tries till I found the best beta at the roof. Very phisical route. The end of 2 weeks in Leonidio-last day,last try. #hard
Goliath Route – L1. 4th go. Beautiful,30m long overhanging continous traverse. Lots & lots of kneebars and a great finish. Perfectly my style. Felt it easier than Pope Star
Pope Star Route – KING LINE!Amazing long route which requires really good tufa technique & power endurance. 5th go and the most epic battle I’ve ever had.The most beautiful route that I’ve climbed so far, and the longest flights that I’ve ever had (during the process). Strongly recommend! Very hard for the grade (maybe 7c+?) #hard
Diet Dope Route – Super route. I enjoyed very much climbing this route, even if it happened in the sun. Lots of kneebars. Just followed the chalk and the rubber and I found myself in top.
Die Heilige Dreifaltigkeit Route – Kind of mix flash-onsight. Beautiful route, tufas techinque & endurance, longer than it looks; felt it as hard as Paranihida L1.
Ernie Route – 3rd go; harder & longer than it looks. Great route, hard for the grade. Requires a tufa technique, lots of kneebars and some power. A real fight for me, not having the best tufa technique. Got me really pumped. I felt it like the hardest 7b+ I’ve ever climbed. #hard
Eisvoleas Route – 3rd go. Very nice, power & endurance; lots of kneebars; interesting middle part
Paranihida Route – Beautiful tufa climbing, harder than Kneebaropoulos; felt great till the top, where I pumped way too much
Kneebaropoulos Route – Amazing tufa climbing, like a ballet; felt it easier than Paranihida. From kneebar to kneebar to the top.
Maria Amzaroiu (f)
Paranihida Route – Favourite route of the trip, double knee-bar inverts most of the way up!
Flavio
Paranihida Route – The biggest portion of unfinished business from autumn. One lap of warmup today figuring out a good beta for the anchor crux. Skipped the last draw before the anchor, which made all the difference in the end. I feel like I graduated from kneebar-highschool, I learned so much from this route.
Insane in the membrane Route – Went from not being able to reach the anchor, via pulling on slings to do so, passing through the phase of figuring out small beta changes, to sending it on the 12th try. Amazing process. This one I will remember forever.
Clemens Gersmann
Ernie Route – Really beautiful line in tufas with a crux in the lower part where the long tufa starts – then use leftover kneebars to work your way up to a great jug on the right. Now the bridging begins to another great jug followed by a no hander rest again using the left knee. Tough until the very end. Maybe a project xD
Winter is Coming Route – Strange start, then good flakes ending with a long move up the ledge. Felt easy for the grade.
Stef fel
Diet Dope Route – Very, very good. Strenuous throughout although (left) leg knee bars help keep the pump at bay – just! 7b in Leonidio guide and deservedly so…
Paranihida Route – Very good. Keep plugging away with knee-bars and keep a bit back for the final moves to the lower-off.
Lolly Pope Route – Super sustained with techie climbing throughout. Solid 7b – never mind the 7a+ in the local guide!
Techno Berlin Route – A little blind on the crux and funky climbing above maintains interest
Keith Sharples
Diet Dope Route – 5 star climbing. Wet tufa, but somehow menegable. A must!!!
Julek Wojciechowski
Lolly Pope Route – Great climbing (my favourite kind – technical). Pleased to get this onsight. First 7b onsight.
DavidEvans
Diet Dope Route – 4. Go One of my favorites in Leonidio. Crux is to find all the kneebars 😉
Kneebaropoulos Route – Sooo cool and soo pumpy. Cool line. Already wanted to climb it last holiday.
Hopfigkeiten am Wirtshaustisch Route – Short and sharp.
Kathrin Ziegler
Venganza del Silencio Route – Very cool. Complex. Pumpy. Happy with a second 8a onsight for the trip.
Kopakabana Route – Awesome! The most fun I’ve had tufa climbing this trip. Man it’s pumpy… Guidebook 7c+
Bert Route – Tough and pumpy, especially as a warm-up!
Ryan Holmes
Jolly Jump Route – Very, very good route. Apparently some of the stalactite at 2/3 height has broken off but I still managed a good rest there with a pad.
Luke Brooks
Diet Dope Route – Fantastic powerful climbing with a sting in the tail!
Goliath Route – Ground Up – Got lost on the traverse on the onsight, tufa exploded by the 2nd bolt on my 2nd attempt, and pulled it out the bag on the 3rd attempt in time to head to the airport! Fantastic sustained climbing
Ed Ratcliffe
Eisvoleas Route – First go on the warm-up today, rather unexpected and with no Knee-pad(Five ascents in total) – Some hard & sustained climbing with nice moves on good but thin holds thru the long crux section(flowstone pinches/pockets/blocky crimp) culminating with a big throw for the last hole and then a pumpy pull over the lip onto a short headwall on tufa pipes ! Felt much better today on it following a rest day and an early start to beat the smeg. Only meant to dog up it but carried on as it all went smoothly and blocky crimp / go again to undercut in first hole felt greasy already so decided to go for it as they would only get worse. Then onto Mars to tick another 7c… proper good last day !
Mat Welsh
Diet Dope Route – This is actually 7b and not easy for the grade either. Ran out of juice on the top section on-sight but managed to hang on long enough for the red point.
Eisvoleas Route – Just a couple of hard moves in the middle really. Very good nonetheless. 2nd go/1st red point after a leisurely bolt to bolt for warming up.
Venganza del Silencio Route – Despite cool (for summer) conditions today, trying to climb up the smooth tufas at the top was a nightmare. Plus there’s at least 3 bolts that are too far to the left and spoil the route imho. A really great sequence on the first crux though. Maybe another time.
Freefall Route – 2nd go, though I very nearly fell off clipping the chain when a foot hold broke, luckily I had a jug in my right hand and was able to hold the barn door swing! Good route, but it seems to cover quite a bit of the same ground as Kopa Kobana from what I can remember.
Kopa Kabana Route – 2nd go/1st red point. Awesome climbing. Lots of knee bars.
Paranihida Route – ook it easy with my shoulder, had a couple of rests on the warm up first. It was actually pretty wet too. The bolts were a pain to clip (most are way out on the left).
Bert Route – Got through the tricky start on-sight but completely fluffed the top (there is a crucial knee bar on the hard move). Clipping the chain is a bit spicy.
Mike Owen
Diet Dope Route – So happy to get this done! Think it was 5th or 6th go in the end! Day before yesterday I got all the way to the last frigging hold and just couldn’t hold on to clip! Today dogged up to get clips in, then it went super smoothy smooth first RP of the day! Managed to sneek in a last knee bar at the height of last bolt, this saved the day! Had a long draw in the chains…it is nails to clip either way! Boss varied line with tufa climbing, undercuts and escalating difficulty. Defo 7b, defo not 7a+!!!
Emilysaladfingers
Goliath – Amazing route with one exciting run out section. I didn’t find the crucial knee bar on the onsight so blew it. First RP was a complete shambles. Forgot to clip a bolt, then couldn’t reach down to clip it but also too scared to miss it out. Comic indecision time before pumping out. Got it next go.
Venganza del Silencio Route – So nearly went wrong. Forgot my sequence, got wrong handed and so couldn’t clip 2nd to last bolt. Fortunately had presence of mind to skip it and ended happily. 2 days.
Kopa Kabana Route – Worked out a better way to get through the single tufa section today. 4 tie-ins in total over 2 days.
Die Heilige Dreifaltigkeit Route – First day it wasn’t being dogged to death by a party or other.
Ernie Route – Failed. Found it desperate. Fighting to stay on even with the knee bars. Just very insecure and the footholds polished to hell. Much harder than 7b and definately 7b+ or harder now.
Bert Route – Failed passing the last bolt. A small technical mistake cost me but I would have probably failed in any case trying to clip the belay. Worth an onsight try so I can forget about it now. Ernie and Bert pretty trashed now.
Eduardo Martinez
Paranihida Route – Many goes. 8 goes over four days. 7a knee bar juggy pitch to a vicious boulder on this sick thin monotufa. Finish on a blobby tufa system. Was severely wet at the top on the send.
Free Fall Route – Hanging all the draws … but not onsight unfortunately. Had done Kopa Kabana before so I knew the moves in the middle a bit. Cool varied tufa Climbing with the potential to hand and foot jam often.
Kopakabana Route – Third go. Punted the bottom boulder 2nd go. Cool day with the Brits + ADR. #hard
Kneebaropoulos Route – This wall of a myriad of knee bar is just madness! Love it! #hard
Jon Shen
Bert Route – Cool climbing but anchor in wrong place. Vision of send all the route and then fall with rope in your hand during clip is not funny…
Ernie Route – Amazing as a lot in Elona! Much better than Bert! 😉
Kopa Kabana Route – Very good looking and even better for climbing! Such, a pitty that second part was wet and couldn’t try it 🙁
Paranihida Route – Another gem from Elona! Even better than kneebaropoulus! Just a bit stupid clip to anchor…
Adam “Gaduła” Karpierz
Ernie Route – climbed it in between the tufas, and not on the left side of the big tufa, what is logical and funny to climb
Free Fall Route – hard to read the right sequence, but anyway very soft for the grade
Kneebaropoulos Route – if you don’t take it serious you fall…:D
Venganza Del Silencio Route – juggy at the bottom and technical to the top, luckily found a good beta and knew a lot of moves from belaying david. don’t know if it is very soft or I’m just in good shape. 8a could fit, but maybe just 7c+.
Jolly Jump Route – The best line, that I tried in leonidio! From the bottom to the top 30° steep, a defined crux, and pumpy to the anchor. Many open pinches, long moves, kneedrops and you need to climb fast. Very, very good!
Paranihida Route – One hard move on a heinous pinch just after the first pitch, but when you know how to do it, it’s an amazing sequence. Use all rest positions in the first pitch! Beautiful line!
Jonathan Elter